Kiryat Sefer

In English, Kiryat Sefer translates as: "The Neighborhood of the Book"

A dozen of the guys from the school I'm studing at, Aish Ha'Torah, took a bus to Kiryat Sefer this past weekend. This Shabbat (Saturday) I spent in the fully integrated Torah observant community of Kiryat Sefer. The culture immersion in this place can be compared to my experience 5 years ago when I spent Shabbat in the ultra-orthodox community of Meha'Sharim (Translation: "Hundreds of Gates") in Jersusalem with Rabbi Goldstein.

The difference between the cultures of Kiryat Sefer and Meha'Sharim is radiated by the land in which we ate, slept, and prayed on from Sunset Friday night to Sunset Saturday evening.

The synagogue we had the privilage of davening (praying) in had an Ark (in which the Torah scrolls are kept) that was carved by one of the world's best wood sculptures. I'm still struggling to understand some of our daily prayers, but everyday in classes I learn more about the meanings of each prayer, paragraph, sentance, and word that we repeat everyday.

The land has an amazing panoramic view of the majority of the Israel from its hilltop (in which Tel Aviv and even Ashdod can be seen on a clear day). The Arabs occupy the land just across the valley next to the Green Line from Kiryat Sefer. (The political Green Line signifies the border of Israel and Jordan prior 1967 and it got its name from the miles of evergreen trees that literly create a green line)

When constructing the city, bulldozers ran into ancient ruins of a civilization dating back thousands of years, where I got to stand in one of the oldest remains of the earliest synagogue excavated in Israel.

The land of Kiryat Sefer has a history that dates back to the Macabean Time, when the Greeks ruled the land which we know now as The State of Israel. The battles of the Hanukkah story occured in the hills surronding the Neighborhood of the Book which lies in the center of the Holy Land.

2500 years ago, Jews lived and studied about Torah (life) in this land, and 2500 years later, 80% of the men living in Kiryat Sefer learn and pray full-time today. They afford this lifestyle by limiting the luxeries most of us are used to in our everyday lives. Out of the 30,000 people that live there, not one owns a television, and many do not own cars. There is no movie theater or even a police station - the town has no need for either. A free loan and return system, called a Gamacht, is setup to borrow everything from chairs for a special occasion to power tools which the community shares.

Every Shabbat, all the road in the town are closed to motorized vehicles, and kids can play in the streets freely. Many of the worlds best Torah scholars reside in this area, including the Chofetz Chiam's grandson. (The Chofetz Chiam is one of the righteous men of modern time, who lived only a century ago).

Our group was paired off, and taken in by several families. Each family rearranging their homes to accomodate us as their Shabbis* weekend guests.

* Shabbis is a term used by Ashkinazik (Jews of European decent). Shabbat is a term used by Sefardic (Jews of Spain or Eastern countries decent).

On Shabbat, the traditional Orthodox "Jewish uniform" is a black suit, white shirt, tie, and black hat. On Friday night, I wore white pants and a white shirt that I brought from India. Topped off with a traditional black vest, and colorful Uzbekistanian-style Kippah. Now, keep in mind that the guys on our trip that wore the traidtional Orthodox Jewish uniform received many looks from curious children who were not used to seeing so many visitors from the outside world. When the kids saw me, instead of asking me "Where are you from?" They would innocently ask me, "What äre you?"

Other kids would stare at us, and as we passed by, would chatter with eachother about the special visitors coming to spend time eating and being with them. One child whispered to his friend, "Why doesn't he [me] have Tzi-Tzis?" A question I find myself unable to answer right now. (Tzi-tzis are the strings that are required for a Jew to wear on a 4 corner garment. The Tzi-tzis carry a powerful meaning by being a constant reminder to the wearer to remember the 613 good-deeds that the Jewish people are required to practice).

My time in Kiryat Sefer was relaxing and educational, and has furthered my connection to a land which I'm growing fonder of every day while I'm here.