Sunday, July 31, 2005

Trecking in the Swiss Alps

I'm currently hiking in the amazing mountains of Switzerland, will be out of contact through August 7th.

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

A Powerful Prayer in a Powerful Place

After talking a walk around the coblestone streets of Vienna's Old City around the Danube River, I prayed in the only synagogue that survived the Holocaust in Vienna. Tucked away behind a pedestrian shopping area, the Nazis did not get to it before it was locked up. Entering this Synagogue had higher security then any other syngaogue I have been to; a passport was required to enter, followed by a short verbal background check before being allowed to pass through a metal detector and a secure door. Aunt Cheryl and I were in awe to be standing in a place where just over 1\2 century ago, it was illegal to be Jewish.


This synagogue survived World War II because it was owned by a non-Jew, and it's apartment building apperance hides the magnificant praying space inside. (Click on the title of this blog: ''A Powerful Prayzer...'' to view the inside of this synagogue).

After praying, we had dinner at the kosher resturaunt just next door to the Synagogue. As we were walking out of the resturant, Aunt Cheryl remembered that we had not said Birkat Hamazon (after meal ''thank-you'' prayer). We stopped, and sat down on a step just between the resturaunt and the synagogue to recite the blessings as locals and tourists walked by to the neighborhood pub.

What an incredible privilage and sensation that was! To be reciting a Jewish prayer on an Austrian street in public. When just 60 years prior, we would have been imprisoned, shot, or sent to a concentration\death camp for doing such a thing. What an incredible place to be demonstrating our appreciation for our food, good fortune, and happiness to be alive.

HISTORY
www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org

In March 1938, Austria was annexed by Nazi Germany, the Anschluss. Following the annexation, Jews were chased through the streets, were forced to scrub the sidewalks and Jewish stores and apartments were pillaged. The Social Democratic party was crushed and thousands of Austrians who opposed Nazi rule were deported to concentration camps and murdered.
The Nazis enacted the
Nuremberg Racial Laws in occupied Austria in May 1938. Within a short period, Jews had lost nearly all of their civil liberties, they were unable to attend university, were excluded from most professions and were forced to wear a yellow badge. All Jewish organizations and institutions were shut down. The Nazis encouraged emigration and nearly 130,000 Jews left Austria, including 30,000 who went to the United States.
Many Jewish stores, factories and building were destroyed during
Kristallnacht on November 9-10, 1938. Public displays of hatred commenced across the city and all of the city’s synagogues were ravaged. The only synagogue that remained untouched was the central synagogue, hidden because of residential surroundings. That night about 6,000 Jews were apprehended and sent to Dachau.
The situation further deteriorated after the
Wanassee Conference in January 1942. The remaining Austrian Jews were killed or sent to concentration camps; more than 65,000 Viennese Jews were deported to concentration camps, only 2,000 survived. About 800 Jews who managed to hide survived the war.

Today, Vienna has 15 synagogues, but the only surviving synagogue from the pre-war era is the Vienna Synagogue (Stadtempel), which houses the community offices and chief rabbinate. The synagogue was damaged during the war and reopened in 1963 after extensive renovations. The synagogue has limited visiting hours and heavy security (due to a 1982 terrorist attack). The spectacular round sanctuary has the look and feel of a Reform temple, but it is an Orthodox congregation with a separate gallery for women. Long discussions were held over whether to permit an organ and adopt more elements of Reform Judaism, but, ultimately, the decision was to stick with orthodoxy but to have some modern touches; for example, the bimah was placed in front of the ark instead of the middle of the sanctuary.
Besides for the Stadtemple, there are a number of prayer rooms serving various
Hassidic sects and other congregations. Efforts made by the Lubavitch movement have increased synagogue attendance, especially of Georgian and Bokharan Jews, who have since opened their own synagogue. In 1984, the Zwi-Peretz Chajes-shule was reopened and, in 1986, the Lauder Foundation established the Beth Chabad Shules and other educational institutions. While only ten percent of the Jewish community is actively Orthodox, there are no Conservative, Reform or Reconstructionist synagogues.

Sunday, July 24, 2005

"The Jew Mac"


Waiting for my flight to Austria, I stopped for a bite to eat at the KOSHER McDonalds at the new Israeli airport. The food is pretty much the same as every other McDonalds, except there's no dairy (cheese, yogart, etc.) served, and you can actually be 100% sure (guarenteed by Rabbinical supervision) that you're really eating 100% beef (that is also Kosher).

Monday, July 18, 2005

LeChaim

I had just finished a class at Yeshiva (Jewish learning center) looking into the deeper meaning of the Shema (A Jewish Prayer), when 2 guys were discussing what they might do over the next few hours we had before dinner. I casually suggested that I was going to visit Yaakov (Jacob), a friend who is very ill and was staying in a nearby hospital, and the others were eager to accompany me. So, two yeshiva guys and Raphael (my violin) joined me for the journey to visit my sick friend.

When we arrived at the hospital we sang and danced for some time, and recited the Me-sheh-bay-rach (Prayer of Healing for the sick), then made our way back to the Old City.

When I reached Zion Gate, I made my way directly to the Western Wall to say a prayer for Yaakov. Raphael came along too, and we played a somber melody called Oseh Shalom. At the end of this tune, a woman approached me and began speaking to me in Hebrew. I didn't understand most of what she had said, but I did get the basic idea that she wanted me to play violin for school children at some event. So I went.

I followed the woman and her 3 children into their car, and we set out on the roads of the winding hills of Jerusalem. On the way, I leraned that today was the 12th day of the month of Tamuz on the Hebrew calendar. The woman explained that the 12th of Tamuz (This year, July 18/19) is a day revered by some as a day of celebration. A day of recollection to the freedom of a Chabbad (Branch of Hassidic Judaism - pronounced "Hah-ba-d") Rebbe (The head-Rabbi of the time) from a Russian prison.

We arrived at our destination, and I found myself in a Chabbad house (synagogue / place of meeting) of one of the neighboring areas of Jerusalem where most people at the event spoke only Hebrew. The first person that I had a conversation with in English hapened to have a direct connection with Yaakov.

We said a Lechaim (raising our glasses in toast, usually with alcohol - literally meaning "To Life!") and Refuah Shlema (complete healing) for Yaakov on the anniversay of the Rebbe's release from prison.

Sunday, July 10, 2005

Kiddush at the Kotel

Friday Night. A night to celebrate.

The sun has set and the week at its end.
We prayed, we ate, and we sang about the land.

After our meal, the guys @ AISH have a tradition:
Offer soldiers on duty a glass of Kiddushim.

(Kiddush is drinking a ceremonial glass of wine. In the soldiers case, grape juice)

We grabbed some cake and a bottle of Holy juice,
and walked down the steps letting our vocal cords loose.

Towards the Wall of Wailing Wonders we marched along,
Searching for soldiers as we sang our happy song.

We approached the first two soldiers with delight and gratitude,
We approached each soldier, even the one in a grumpy mood.

Some accepted with a smile, and others asked us to leave!
But we acheived our goal in offering a good deed.

Whether reluctant or grateful each soldier was that night,
Our thoughts and good wishes helped spread light.

Thursday, July 07, 2005

Packed @ Wall

Tonight, I'm visiting friends living in Har Adar, located on the border of the West Bank. Life here is "relativly peaceful" compared to what's happened in London today.

I'll be back in the Old City of Jerusalem again for the weekend. Friday nights at the Western Wall are packed with people, it'll be a great experience.

Soldier Meals

Not only are there student discounts, but if you're a soldier in the Israeli army, there's a special discount for a "soldier meal."

Sunday, July 03, 2005

Kiryat Sefer

In English, Kiryat Sefer translates as: "The Neighborhood of the Book"

A dozen of the guys from the school I'm studing at, Aish Ha'Torah, took a bus to Kiryat Sefer this past weekend. This Shabbat (Saturday) I spent in the fully integrated Torah observant community of Kiryat Sefer. The culture immersion in this place can be compared to my experience 5 years ago when I spent Shabbat in the ultra-orthodox community of Meha'Sharim (Translation: "Hundreds of Gates") in Jersusalem with Rabbi Goldstein.

The difference between the cultures of Kiryat Sefer and Meha'Sharim is radiated by the land in which we ate, slept, and prayed on from Sunset Friday night to Sunset Saturday evening.

The synagogue we had the privilage of davening (praying) in had an Ark (in which the Torah scrolls are kept) that was carved by one of the world's best wood sculptures. I'm still struggling to understand some of our daily prayers, but everyday in classes I learn more about the meanings of each prayer, paragraph, sentance, and word that we repeat everyday.

The land has an amazing panoramic view of the majority of the Israel from its hilltop (in which Tel Aviv and even Ashdod can be seen on a clear day). The Arabs occupy the land just across the valley next to the Green Line from Kiryat Sefer. (The political Green Line signifies the border of Israel and Jordan prior 1967 and it got its name from the miles of evergreen trees that literly create a green line)

When constructing the city, bulldozers ran into ancient ruins of a civilization dating back thousands of years, where I got to stand in one of the oldest remains of the earliest synagogue excavated in Israel.

The land of Kiryat Sefer has a history that dates back to the Macabean Time, when the Greeks ruled the land which we know now as The State of Israel. The battles of the Hanukkah story occured in the hills surronding the Neighborhood of the Book which lies in the center of the Holy Land.

2500 years ago, Jews lived and studied about Torah (life) in this land, and 2500 years later, 80% of the men living in Kiryat Sefer learn and pray full-time today. They afford this lifestyle by limiting the luxeries most of us are used to in our everyday lives. Out of the 30,000 people that live there, not one owns a television, and many do not own cars. There is no movie theater or even a police station - the town has no need for either. A free loan and return system, called a Gamacht, is setup to borrow everything from chairs for a special occasion to power tools which the community shares.

Every Shabbat, all the road in the town are closed to motorized vehicles, and kids can play in the streets freely. Many of the worlds best Torah scholars reside in this area, including the Chofetz Chiam's grandson. (The Chofetz Chiam is one of the righteous men of modern time, who lived only a century ago).

Our group was paired off, and taken in by several families. Each family rearranging their homes to accomodate us as their Shabbis* weekend guests.

* Shabbis is a term used by Ashkinazik (Jews of European decent). Shabbat is a term used by Sefardic (Jews of Spain or Eastern countries decent).

On Shabbat, the traditional Orthodox "Jewish uniform" is a black suit, white shirt, tie, and black hat. On Friday night, I wore white pants and a white shirt that I brought from India. Topped off with a traditional black vest, and colorful Uzbekistanian-style Kippah. Now, keep in mind that the guys on our trip that wore the traidtional Orthodox Jewish uniform received many looks from curious children who were not used to seeing so many visitors from the outside world. When the kids saw me, instead of asking me "Where are you from?" They would innocently ask me, "What äre you?"

Other kids would stare at us, and as we passed by, would chatter with eachother about the special visitors coming to spend time eating and being with them. One child whispered to his friend, "Why doesn't he [me] have Tzi-Tzis?" A question I find myself unable to answer right now. (Tzi-tzis are the strings that are required for a Jew to wear on a 4 corner garment. The Tzi-tzis carry a powerful meaning by being a constant reminder to the wearer to remember the 613 good-deeds that the Jewish people are required to practice).

My time in Kiryat Sefer was relaxing and educational, and has furthered my connection to a land which I'm growing fonder of every day while I'm here.